I really love reading about the history of champagne houses. It enriches my tasting experience so much so that I find drinking champagne without understanding where it comes from only half the pleasure. When it comes to Taittinger, the exceptionally high quality experience makes even more sense when you know the story behind the house. The story features a common thread of wine, business and politics that has continued to weave its way through each generation. This almighty combination has earned the house a reputation for being very savvy, with each generation having demonstrated their sense of family enterprise and honour in the harsh world of modern business - which sometimes struggles to be compatible with the ancient tradition of champagne-making.
Established in 1734, the house itself (but not its namesake) is the third oldest champagne house in the world. Jacques Fourneaux established the original house, working with Benedictine Abbeys who originally owned all the vineyards, to make still wines and then sparkling.
Two centuries later, the actual house of Taittinger was born when Pierre Taittinger purchased what was then, Chateau de la Marquetterie, in 1932 from the Forest-Forneaux families in the midst of war and the depression. An entrepreneurial man, Pierre capitalised on the economic downturn by also buying a significant number of vineyards; which has continued until recent times. However wine was not a new frontier for Pierre. His family were established wine merchants who moved to Paris to retain citizenship in 1870 following the Franco-Prussian War; the war that almost destroyed Champagne. In Paris, Pierre was also established in the trade, as a champagne distributor and exporter. He also had powerful connections as a politician.
With wine, power and business savviness already in his blood, Pierre had all the makings of a future successful champagne producer.
Under Pierre's stewardship, the business grew in strength. But it was Claude Taittinger - Pierre's grandson - who took the company to international stardom from 1960 - 2005. It was consequently sold off to a large American hotel group as part of a wider purchase that included other luxury goods owned by the Taittinger family. What a shame.
But true to the entrepreneurial spirit of the family, the house of Taittinger was purchased back by several family members, supported by the financial resources of Crédit Agricole to the reported tune of 660 million Euros. Since this time, the family has gradually bought back shares from the bank.
Today, Taittinger is controlled by a loyal group of family members and headed up by Pierre-Emmanuel (Claude Taittinger's nephew), and his daughter, Vitalie and son, Clovis - all of whom have been successful in their own right prior to the buy-back in 2006.
So it would seem, the writing was always on the wall for this family. In an article by Upstart Business Journal, Pierre-Emmanuel said, "My grandfather gave me a book when I was 5 years old. In the dedication it said ‘To my grandson, who will one day be an entrepreneur and be the guardian of the family tradition.’”
The family has continued to build upon their empire and is now one of the largest in Champagne with production of five million bottles a year.
What this all means to me, as a drinker of Taittinger, is that the family are incredibly proud of what they do and passionate without restraint; a sentiment that almost reaches out and grabs you when reading interviews with members of the family. This spirit is evident in their champagne-making as much as it is in their business practices - but I will discuss this at a later stage.
Now to the champagne experience itself. This review focuses on Taittinger's entry point into the market - the Brut Réserve Non-Vintage which is aged for three to four years. I really loved this quality non-vintage champagne; it has wonderfully developed aromas and flavours. In the coming weeks I will continue on my Taittinger journey and report back. But for now, here are my tasting notes.
A little about style - Taittinger's style is very much based on chardonnay. They produce elegant, lighter styles of champagne that are rich and creamy. Blend - 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay.
Glass - A wonderfully dazzling, light lemon colour with super-fine beads.
Nose - Medium pronounced aromas of stonefruit, flowers and yeast.
Palate - The palate is led by citrus and stonefruits - like peach - with some earthy spiciness. The flavours of fruit and citrus together are very fresh and lively, making me salivate. There are notes of honey, some yeastiness and toastiness - indicative of some ageing. There is also good length on the finish. This is an elegant and fine champagne with good balance and precise flavours. Just lovely.
Verdict - 92/100.
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