The Symbol Of A Family's Passion And Legacy - Taittinger Brut Réserve Non-Vintage

I really love reading about the history of champagne houses. It enriches my tasting experience so much so that I find drinking champagne without understanding where it comes from only half the pleasure.

When it comes to Taittinger, the exceptionally high quality experience makes even more sense when you know the story behind the house. The story features a common thread of wine, business and politics that has continued to weave its way through each generation. This almighty combination has earned the house a reputation for being very savvy, with each generation having demonstrated their sense of family enterprise and honour in the harsh world of modern business - which sometimes struggles to be compatible with the ancient tradition of champagne-making.

Established in 1734, the house itself (but not its namesake) is the third oldest champagne house in the world. Jacques Fourneaux established the original house, working with Benedictine Abbeys who originally owned all the vineyards, to make still wines and then sparkling.

Elegance And Expression - R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage

I am having a love affair with Ruinart right now. Over the past two weeks I have sipped, enjoyed and learned about their R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage and their Ruinart Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Every taste, every smell has been a wonderful experience.

It's been my first foray into the world of Ruinart, brought on by preparation plans for our trip to Champagne in September this year. Our trip includes a tasting at Ruinart. At 140 Euros, it doesn't come cheap; but I did my research and France's oldest champagne house seems like one not to miss.

Ruinart produces an incredibly expressive style of champagne; so in researching for my blog this week I wanted to understand why it is so aromatic and floral on the nose and why the flavours are so fresh and intense.

The finesse, elegance, and minerality of chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through all of their cuvées. And whilst the R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage and Ruinart Brut Rosé Non-Vintage are not dominated by chardonnay in the blend, the chardonnay is carefully used to restrain the berry forward flavours of pinot noir.

 

Which brings me to my next point; Ruinart’s cuvées are very well balanced. There is a truly wonderful and clever act happening in the background between all elements of the champagne; no one element dominates another. It’s more of a happy, complementary and exciting marriage.

Capturing The Terroir Perfectly - Louis Roederer Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004

Almost every champagne house claims to be the 'first' for having done something or the only one that does something a certain way. So when I drink champagne, I like to think about what makes it different to any other.

When it comes to Louis Roederer it does have a defining flavour and texture that to some degree sets it apart from many others. It's not defining in an obvious way like a Bollinger, for example. But there is a consistent, almost 'gritty' texture that comes through in all of its cuvees as well as having loads of character and flavour. It's simply delicious!

So, going back to my initial question, what does Louis Roederer do to produce these experiential qualities? And what other elements contribute to making their vintage blanc de blancs different to others?

A Toast To Her Majesty - Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2000

Diamond Jubilees don’t happen very often. None of us were alive for Queen Victoria’s and the reality is none of us will be around to see another. 

 

Whilst, admittedly, I am a monarchist, I’m not a raving one. I’m not the type, nor do I have the motivation, to line the streets for hours to get a glimpse of the Queen or Kate (despite her fabulous shoes, hats and dresses). I don’t collect royal souvenir tea towels or spoons or buy Woman’s Day to scan the pages for salacious gossip about Pippa Middleton. I’m not that kind of royal fan.  

 

But there is something really special about a 60 year reign when it’s characterised by benevolence and good stewardship, prevailing unwaveringly, and embraced infectiously by millions of people around the world.

 

So as we hurried home after work to take front row seats in our living room and watch the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert on replay, I thought about what champagne would best mark the occasion. No champagne came to mind other than Pol Roger. Pol Roger seemed so fitting; it had long been a favourite of the royal family, receiving the Royal Warrant in 1911 - the same year it was served at the Guildhall Luncheon to celebrate the coronation of George V. Since then, Pol Roger has been served at almost every major state event in Britain, including at William and Kate’s wedding where they served Pol Roger Non-Vintage Brut. 

Could This Be The Best Cooperative In Champagne? Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004

I first introduced Le Mesnil  on 15 April when I reviewed Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (NV). I was totally blown away by my new find; it was truly an exciting experience. 

The amazing cooperative behind Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004 and five other labels consists of 553 growers who represent the very best parcels of Grand Cru estates in the Côte des Blancs– around 305 hectares' worth. Whilst they have been supplying grapes for some of the best houses in Champagne (such as Salon’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil and Krug’s Clos de Mesnil) since 1937, they also bottle their own under the simply named label 'Le Mesnil'.

Champagne Excitement - Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

When I get a feeling of excitement after my very first sip, I know I’m onto something really special. Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is one such champagne that offers that special something.

By happenstance, I bought a bottle from the cellars on Churchill Road. It's a rather unassuming bottle shop that doesn't promise much from the outside but the owner is a champagne enthusiast - and the one who had put me onto Claude Carré.

So when I walked in on a Friday afternoon I never expected to walk out with another grower Blanc de Blancs.

After striking up a conversation with the owner, I was told that this one was a step above Claude Carré.

“It has significantly more body and is a real treat,” he said. “Those George Street wine importers really know their stuff – trust me.”