Learning To Appreciate Pinot Meunier - Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Non-Vintage

Pinot meunier is one of three key grape varieties commonly used in champagne making but is unfortunately considered the poorer cousin.

Whilst the minerality, creaminess and finesse of chardonnay is spruiked and celebrated and the backbone, weight and fleshiness of pinot noir is praised by the more serious, pinot meunier often gets no mention at all in tasting notes, or worse - picked on for various failings.

Which brings me to my latest champagne tasting of Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut Non-Vintage - an interesting foray into the world of pinot meunier as it applies to champagne. The blend's starring act is pinot meunier comprising 40 percent of the grape as well as 40 percent pinot noir and 20 percent chardonnay.

Perrier-Jouët has a long history with pinot meunier, having purchased 65 hectares of land around Epernay shortly after the house was founded in 1811. Epernay is situated in the Vallée de la Marne where most Pinot Meunier is grown in the Champagne region.

Elegance And Expression - R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage

I am having a love affair with Ruinart right now. Over the past two weeks I have sipped, enjoyed and learned about their R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage and their Ruinart Brut Rosé Non-Vintage. Every taste, every smell has been a wonderful experience.

It's been my first foray into the world of Ruinart, brought on by preparation plans for our trip to Champagne in September this year. Our trip includes a tasting at Ruinart. At 140 Euros, it doesn't come cheap; but I did my research and France's oldest champagne house seems like one not to miss.

Ruinart produces an incredibly expressive style of champagne; so in researching for my blog this week I wanted to understand why it is so aromatic and floral on the nose and why the flavours are so fresh and intense.

The finesse, elegance, and minerality of chardonnay is the golden thread that runs through all of their cuvées. And whilst the R de Ruinart Brut Non-Vintage and Ruinart Brut Rosé Non-Vintage are not dominated by chardonnay in the blend, the chardonnay is carefully used to restrain the berry forward flavours of pinot noir.

 

Which brings me to my next point; Ruinart’s cuvées are very well balanced. There is a truly wonderful and clever act happening in the background between all elements of the champagne; no one element dominates another. It’s more of a happy, complementary and exciting marriage.

The Rewards Of Time And Patience - Pol Roger Brut Rosé Vintage 2000

"In this world where most champagne businesses are owned by large companies we have this extra dimension of being a family owned company. It brings a lot of pleasure, consistency and long-term view to the running of our business. We are not in a hurry...."

This statement by Pol Roger's Hubert de Billy, in an article by Smith and Taylor, does well to capture the values of 'excellence and independence' embraced by the house and in doing so, the sentiment applied to their vintages. 

Since their first vintage in 1874, Pol Roger has lovingly and patiently been the custodians of time, waiting eight years and applying highly meticulous production processes to allow its vintage champagnes to not only be good upon release, but to have excellent ageing potential.  I discuss what makes Pol Roger's production processes special in more detail in my post from 18 June.

A Rosé Of Great Style And Finesse - Louis Roederer Vintage Brut Rosé 2004

Since last week when I blogged my tasting notes on Louis Roederer's Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004, there has been a significant development with this champagne house.

Decanter magazine announced that Louis Roederer had increased its vineyard ownership from 214 hectares to 230 hectares all whilst becoming Champagne's largest biodynamic producer, following the purchase of Champagne Leclerc Briant.

The purchase comes after the passing of Pascal Leclerc Briant in 2010, leaving his three daughters to gradually sell off the 30 hectare estate which mostly takes in highly coveted Premier Cru territory.

Louis Roederer purchased two hectares in October 2011 and its owners, the Rouzaud family, has paid an estimated €40M to buy the remaining estate which includes the Leclerc Briant brand itself. These remaining parcels of land are located in the Premier Cru areas of Hautvilliers, Cumières and Damery.

Capturing The Terroir Perfectly - Louis Roederer Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004

Almost every champagne house claims to be the 'first' for having done something or the only one that does something a certain way. So when I drink champagne, I like to think about what makes it different to any other.

When it comes to Louis Roederer it does have a defining flavour and texture that to some degree sets it apart from many others. It's not defining in an obvious way like a Bollinger, for example. But there is a consistent, almost 'gritty' texture that comes through in all of its cuvees as well as having loads of character and flavour. It's simply delicious!

So, going back to my initial question, what does Louis Roederer do to produce these experiential qualities? And what other elements contribute to making their vintage blanc de blancs different to others?

A Toast To Her Majesty - Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2000

Diamond Jubilees don’t happen very often. None of us were alive for Queen Victoria’s and the reality is none of us will be around to see another. 

 

Whilst, admittedly, I am a monarchist, I’m not a raving one. I’m not the type, nor do I have the motivation, to line the streets for hours to get a glimpse of the Queen or Kate (despite her fabulous shoes, hats and dresses). I don’t collect royal souvenir tea towels or spoons or buy Woman’s Day to scan the pages for salacious gossip about Pippa Middleton. I’m not that kind of royal fan.  

 

But there is something really special about a 60 year reign when it’s characterised by benevolence and good stewardship, prevailing unwaveringly, and embraced infectiously by millions of people around the world.

 

So as we hurried home after work to take front row seats in our living room and watch the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert on replay, I thought about what champagne would best mark the occasion. No champagne came to mind other than Pol Roger. Pol Roger seemed so fitting; it had long been a favourite of the royal family, receiving the Royal Warrant in 1911 - the same year it was served at the Guildhall Luncheon to celebrate the coronation of George V. Since then, Pol Roger has been served at almost every major state event in Britain, including at William and Kate’s wedding where they served Pol Roger Non-Vintage Brut. 

One Of My Top Three Non-Vintages - Louis Roederer Premier Brut

A non-vintage brut champagne is a classic style of champagne that most of us drink when we think of picking up a bottle on Friday night or when we’re going over to someone’s house for dinner. The biggest appeal is that it’s easy to drink and gives us that classic champagne taste of the blended three grape varieties: pinot noir, pinor meunier and chardonnay.

Where some non-vintage champagnes let me down is in the fact they’re still very young and so have sharp, citric (lemon/lime) or strong green apple flavours; to me they need a little more time to develop that classic champagne taste (non-vintages only have to be aged for 15 months, according to the Appellation d’OrigineContrôlée (AOC) – the regulatory authority for champagne, although some champagne houses age them longer). These young, fun and lively champagnes should be taken (and enjoyed) as they are; mostly as an aperitif on a lazy Sunday afternoon with cheese, over a barbeque with friends or on a Friday night sitting on the couch watching TV.