Capturing The Terroir Perfectly - Louis Roederer Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004

Almost every champagne house claims to be the 'first' for having done something or the only one that does something a certain way. So when I drink champagne, I like to think about what makes it different to any other.

When it comes to Louis Roederer it does have a defining flavour and texture that to some degree sets it apart from many others. It's not defining in an obvious way like a Bollinger, for example. But there is a consistent, almost 'gritty' texture that comes through in all of its cuvees as well as having loads of character and flavour. It's simply delicious!

So, going back to my initial question, what does Louis Roederer do to produce these experiential qualities? And what other elements contribute to making their vintage blanc de blancs different to others?

A Toast To Her Majesty - Pol Roger Brut Vintage 2000

Diamond Jubilees don’t happen very often. None of us were alive for Queen Victoria’s and the reality is none of us will be around to see another. 

 

Whilst, admittedly, I am a monarchist, I’m not a raving one. I’m not the type, nor do I have the motivation, to line the streets for hours to get a glimpse of the Queen or Kate (despite her fabulous shoes, hats and dresses). I don’t collect royal souvenir tea towels or spoons or buy Woman’s Day to scan the pages for salacious gossip about Pippa Middleton. I’m not that kind of royal fan.  

 

But there is something really special about a 60 year reign when it’s characterised by benevolence and good stewardship, prevailing unwaveringly, and embraced infectiously by millions of people around the world.

 

So as we hurried home after work to take front row seats in our living room and watch the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert on replay, I thought about what champagne would best mark the occasion. No champagne came to mind other than Pol Roger. Pol Roger seemed so fitting; it had long been a favourite of the royal family, receiving the Royal Warrant in 1911 - the same year it was served at the Guildhall Luncheon to celebrate the coronation of George V. Since then, Pol Roger has been served at almost every major state event in Britain, including at William and Kate’s wedding where they served Pol Roger Non-Vintage Brut. 

Could This Be The Best Cooperative In Champagne? Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004

I first introduced Le Mesnil  on 15 April when I reviewed Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (NV). I was totally blown away by my new find; it was truly an exciting experience. 

The amazing cooperative behind Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004 and five other labels consists of 553 growers who represent the very best parcels of Grand Cru estates in the Côte des Blancs– around 305 hectares' worth. Whilst they have been supplying grapes for some of the best houses in Champagne (such as Salon’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil and Krug’s Clos de Mesnil) since 1937, they also bottle their own under the simply named label 'Le Mesnil'.

Everything That A Non-Vintage Blanc de Blancs Should Be - Billecart-Salmon Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV

It’s 3am and for the life of me, I cannot sleep. As I tell myself to keep on trying for another hour or so, I can’t stop thinking of a presentation that’s due for work.

I give in, get up, jump-start my laptop and pour a glass of sparkling mineral water. The bubbles remind me of champagne – there’s no escaping it once it’s on the mind. So I pour myself a glass – why not?

Rob and I started a bottle of Billecart-Salmon’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (NV) the day before as an aperitif before heading off to see the stage production of Yes Prime Minister. With a few glasses left in the bottle, it was a perfect opportunity to indulge - after all, the bottle was already open!

There is something strangely intoxicating about sitting alone in deafening silence enveloped by a haze of darkness with nothing but the muted bubbling of champagne at your side.

The Secret To Success Is Constancy To Purpose - Billecart-Salmon Brut Reserve NV

When champagne is served in first class on Air France, you know it must be pretty good – after all, the country’s synonymous relationship with champagne must reflect well on the airline’s best product.  Billecart-Salmon’s Brut Reserve Non-Vintage (NV) is one such champagne that only a select few well-to-do, lucky passengers have the privilege of sitting back and relaxing with when they fly with the national carrier.

But thankfully for the majority of us, you don’t need to have the fat cheque books of the super-rich to enjoy this lovely cuvée. At around $90 a bottle, this high quality champagne represents excellent value and is the best starting point for commencing a life-long long love affair with the surreal and sublime productions of Billecart-Salmon.

Whilst rosé may be the famous style that defines this medium size champagne house, their Brut Reserve NV demonstrates the core principles of the house and framework inherent in each cuvée.