Capturing The Terroir Perfectly - Louis Roederer Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004

Almost every champagne house claims to be the 'first' for having done something or the only one that does something a certain way. So when I drink champagne, I like to think about what makes it different to any other.

When it comes to Louis Roederer it does have a defining flavour and texture that to some degree sets it apart from many others. It's not defining in an obvious way like a Bollinger, for example. But there is a consistent, almost 'gritty' texture that comes through in all of its cuvees as well as having loads of character and flavour. It's simply delicious!

So, going back to my initial question, what does Louis Roederer do to produce these experiential qualities? And what other elements contribute to making their vintage blanc de blancs different to others?

Louis Roederer's 'vine to the bottle' approach is its single biggest defining factor, providing all the explanation necessary to understand what drives this magnificent portfolio of champagnes and why they taste so good.

Starting first with their vines, Louis Roederer has consistently purchased properties across the Côte des Blancs, Montagne de Reims and the Vallée de la Marne for several decades. They now own more than 75% of the vineyards required to produce their champagne with more than 40% of these vines located in the Côte des Blancs (the best terroir - or combination of climate and soil - for chardonnay grapes).

The Côte des Blancs area, where the grapes for the 2004 Blanc de Blancs vintage are taken from, is characterised by shallow surface soil and high quantities of chalk. According to Louis Roederer's website, this imparts 'spirit, finesse, elegance, floral and mineral notes'. As a point of contrast, the Montagne de Reims (where Ppnot noir typically comes from) is characterised by deep quantities of soil, underlaid by limestone bedrock. The result is grapes with 'good body, structure and strength'.

The key point to take away from this is how Louis Roederer ensures the qualitites of the terroir are captured in every chardonnay grape. Since 1989, Louis Roederer has carried out harvesting on their vines overlaiden with fruit. This is to maximise quality over quantity, ensuring the flavours and characteristics are concentrated in a smaller amount of fruit; this is typically 14 bunches per plant - or enough for one bottle of champagne.

Perhaps the single biggest factor influencing Louis Roederer's style comes down to appointing their Cellar Director to the dual role of Vineyard Director. The house recognises that the style and quality of the wine starts with the vine; this is important because it appreciates that the secrets to the bottle's overall expression of creativity does not only reside in the actual production.

The combined role of the Cellar Director with that of the Vineyard Director sets the strategic direction of the house.

When it comes to production, and in keeping with Louis Roederer's philosophy of quality over quantity, the Blanc de Blancs vintages are produced in small numbers. They have also resisted using malolactic fermentation to preserve freshness, which is also helped along by the reduction of atmospheres from the typical six to four. Matured for five years deep in Louis Roederer's cellars, it was then aged for six months on the cork. Around 8%-10% dosage is then added.

With all of that now said, here are my tasting notes.

A little about style - Louis Roederer is known for being full-bodied, rich, powerful, round and fruity.

Blend - 100% chardonnay taken from Les Mesnil Sur Oger and Avize. Around 15-20% of the wines are aged in oak barrels with weekly batonnage (which keeps the lees in contact with the chardonnay so it produces a creamier, mouth-lining texture).

Glass - Looks are deceiving. Its pale lemon tones, flecked with green, suggests this is a highly acidic, light style of wine. 

Nose - Delicate on the nose, it manifests with light floral and white fruit notes with some yeastiness.

Palate - Upon sipping you realise that whilst this is comparatively a lighter style of wine (being a Blanc de Blancs and all), there are several mouthfilling qualities about it that make it a more medium bodied wine. 

At first, the acidic, green apple flavours are the most forward, cleansing the palate and leaving a slight tingling feeling. As I sip further, I notice lemon and white fruit (like pear) softened by florals – honeysuckle comes to mind. Notes of toasted brioche emerge subtly over the top and soften the overall impression. There is slight creaminess but not much. The combination of flavours and the staged way in which they emerge make this more a medium style cuvée. 

It’s a pure tasting and tightly concentrated champagne that’s beautifully balanced. Just when you think there is too much acidity upon the first taste, subsequent sips say otherwise.

True to Louis Roederer's style, the entire experience is overlaid by chalky minerality that manifests in a fine 'grittiness'. Very nice indeed.

Verdict - 93/100.

Further reading - For more tasting notes, see: Louis Roederer's website. There is a good blog here about sur lie (ageing on the lees) and battonage: Blog.

Where to buy - Stocks in Australia seem to be nearly out, so it's a little difficult to source. Try Champagne Gallery.