Capturing The Terroir Perfectly - Louis Roederer Vintage Blanc de Blancs 2004

Almost every champagne house claims to be the 'first' for having done something or the only one that does something a certain way. So when I drink champagne, I like to think about what makes it different to any other.

When it comes to Louis Roederer it does have a defining flavour and texture that to some degree sets it apart from many others. It's not defining in an obvious way like a Bollinger, for example. But there is a consistent, almost 'gritty' texture that comes through in all of its cuvees as well as having loads of character and flavour. It's simply delicious!

So, going back to my initial question, what does Louis Roederer do to produce these experiential qualities? And what other elements contribute to making their vintage blanc de blancs different to others?

Could This Be The Best Cooperative In Champagne? Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004

I first introduced Le Mesnil  on 15 April when I reviewed Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (NV). I was totally blown away by my new find; it was truly an exciting experience. 

The amazing cooperative behind Le Mesnil Sublime Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs 2004 and five other labels consists of 553 growers who represent the very best parcels of Grand Cru estates in the Côte des Blancs– around 305 hectares' worth. Whilst they have been supplying grapes for some of the best houses in Champagne (such as Salon’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil and Krug’s Clos de Mesnil) since 1937, they also bottle their own under the simply named label 'Le Mesnil'.

Everything That A Non-Vintage Blanc de Blancs Should Be - Billecart-Salmon Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs NV

It’s 3am and for the life of me, I cannot sleep. As I tell myself to keep on trying for another hour or so, I can’t stop thinking of a presentation that’s due for work.

I give in, get up, jump-start my laptop and pour a glass of sparkling mineral water. The bubbles remind me of champagne – there’s no escaping it once it’s on the mind. So I pour myself a glass – why not?

Rob and I started a bottle of Billecart-Salmon’s Brut Blanc de Blancs Non-Vintage (NV) the day before as an aperitif before heading off to see the stage production of Yes Prime Minister. With a few glasses left in the bottle, it was a perfect opportunity to indulge - after all, the bottle was already open!

There is something strangely intoxicating about sitting alone in deafening silence enveloped by a haze of darkness with nothing but the muted bubbling of champagne at your side.

Champagne Excitement - Le Mesnil Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs

When I get a feeling of excitement after my very first sip, I know I’m onto something really special. Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is one such champagne that offers that special something.

By happenstance, I bought a bottle from the cellars on Churchill Road. It's a rather unassuming bottle shop that doesn't promise much from the outside but the owner is a champagne enthusiast - and the one who had put me onto Claude Carré.

So when I walked in on a Friday afternoon I never expected to walk out with another grower Blanc de Blancs.

After striking up a conversation with the owner, I was told that this one was a step above Claude Carré.

“It has significantly more body and is a real treat,” he said. “Those George Street wine importers really know their stuff – trust me.”

Claude Carré et Fils Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs

Sometimes, there is no particular reason to have champagne other than to make you happy when you are sad (as Lady Bollinger once said). Not that I was ‘sad, sad’ but I was feeling particularly flat, overworked and overwhelmed after being pulled from pillar to post at work.

I knew that only champagne could fix it; especially as my husband Rob was out of town for the night at a fundraiser. 

But when I got to the cellars, there was something new there that took my eye – Claude Carré et Fils Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs.

The tasting note attached to the shelf said it displayed flavours of “toastiness and excellent finesse” and was “excellent value for this small production champagne house.”