Diamond
Jubilees don’t happen very often. None of us were alive for Queen Victoria’s
and the reality is none of us will be around to see another.
Whilst, admittedly,
I am a monarchist, I’m not a raving one. I’m not the type, nor do I have the
motivation, to line the streets for hours to get a glimpse of the Queen or Kate
(despite her fabulous shoes, hats and dresses). I don’t collect royal souvenir
tea towels or spoons or buy Woman’s Day to scan the pages for salacious gossip
about Pippa Middleton. I’m not that kind of royal fan.
But there is something really special about a 60 year reign when it’s characterised by
benevolence and good stewardship, prevailing unwaveringly, and embraced
infectiously by millions of people around the world.
So as we
hurried home after work to take front row seats in our living room and watch
the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee concert on replay, I thought about what champagne would best mark
the occasion. No champagne came to mind other than Pol Roger. Pol Roger seemed so fitting; it
had long been a favourite of the royal family, receiving the Royal Warrant in
1911 - the same year it was served at the Guildhall Luncheon to celebrate the
coronation of George V. Since then, Pol Roger has been served at almost every
major state event in Britain, including at William and Kate’s wedding where
they served Pol Roger Non-Vintage Brut.
The UK has continued to grow as Pol Roger's most important export market; where their fan base cannot get enough. According to Pol Roger's Laurent D'Harcourt they could easily ship another two or three times the amount to the UK and it still wouldn't be enough to satisfy demand.
So if you are anything like me, you might be wondering: why is this lovely bubbly the nation's champagne drink of choice? And, dare I say it, why does Pol Roger seem more British than French?
Britain's best known statesman , Sir
Winston Churchill, had the biggest hand in all of this; he was by far the best ambassador this champagne house has ever
had. And in many ways his legendary loyalty to it continues to be
their best endorsement. Churchill first tried Pol Roger in 1908 but it wasn’t until 1944
when he developed a strong affinity with the house after procuring a friendship
(perhaps with a cheeky twist of flirtation) with Odette Pol Roger, the
beautiful Grande Dame of Pol Roger. Churchill’s
love affair with Pol Roger became legendary, apparently consuming one bottle of
the cuvee every day. And during the Second World War, Churchill maintained
stocks of Pol Roger wherever he went – even in war zones - famously declaring,
“Remember, gentlemen, it’s not just France we are fighting for, it’s
champagne!”A clever lady, Odette capitalised on their close friendship by shipping Churchill cases of their 1928 vintage yearly until stocks ran out. She then supplied him with their 1934 vintage until his death in 1965. Churchill was said to have preferred these top vintages for their ‘robustness, structure and maturity’ – characteristics that were synonymous with the famous leader himself.
As I
sipped and watched the concert, I reflected on just how influential Churchill had been in not only promoting champagne but in bringing it to the world. Perhaps if his attempts
during the Second World War had failed, champagne wouldn’t have had the reach
it now has today as one of the most recognisable symbols not only of a fine
wine product but of a nation’s cultural identity.
Like the 1929 and 1934 vintages enjoyed by Churchill, the 2000 vintage has great robustness, structure and maturity that you would expect from a winning combination of fine champagne production processes and a decent vintage; although the 2000 vintage almost didn’t happen.
The beginning of the year got off to a rocky start, with hot and rainy weather and little sunshine. But just prior to harvest, the weather significantly improved, producing ripe and healthy grapes with acceptable levels of sugar and acidity.
Secondary
fermentation (in the bottle) was also undertaken in cool temperatures (nine to 11
degrees) to ensure the process was a slow one, resulting in wine with good finesse, fine beading and good cellaring potential.
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| Pol Roger being delivered to 10 Downing Street for Winston Churchill |
Blend – Every one of Pol Roger’s vintages are 60% pinot noir and 40% chardonnay. Around 10.5% dosage is added.
Glass – Pale to medium yellow with a fine, streamlined bead.
Nose – Fresh and slightly spicy with a hint of smoke.
Palate – The first thing I notice is how incredibly delicious this champagne is. My mouth salivates, indicating a good amount of acidity. Delivered with good finesse and liveliness, it makes for a medium-full body experience that is also quite dry. This is quite surprising because the cuvée has 10.4% sugar dosage added – more than I’m used to in a brut these days.
The gorgeous classic characteristics of the chardonnay emerge. It manifests as dried fruits and stewed pear rounding out with yeasty creaminess before morphing into flakes of toasted nuts with cloves.
The texture is smooth as silk and
crystal clear; a very light mouth-coating prevails, ending with the cleansing
aftertaste of lemon sorbet and a very long finish.
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