Journey to Champagne 2012 - Part 2

They were only 2.5 kilometres apart, but getting from Louis Roederer to Ruinart in Reims seemed like an impossible task the longer we waited for our cab amidst the drizzle and icy winds.

The generosity of time (and free-flowing champagne) bestowed upon us at Louis Roederer far exceeded our expectations. It was such a joy and indeed a treat - but we were now running terribly late for our next appointment at Ruinart, the oldest champagne house.

We nonetheless arrived, albeit with flat, wet hair and slightly stressed - much to the amusement of a few Americans already there. Oh well, at least they won't forget us in a hurry.

Ruinart - champagne's pioneer (and unsung hero)

Ruinart is a wonderful champagne house whose highly expressive cuvées reflect a philosophy of bringing out the very best in chardonnay. Including them on my itinerary wasn't purely for reasons of indulgence - it was out of sheer awe for their longevity in an industry that has literally seen it all; war, disease, poverty, political revolution...to name a few. 

Ruinart can legitimately claim to the be first champagne house. A ledger account kept by its founder, Nicolas Ruinart, serves as a birth certificate for their foundation in 1729 and provides all the evidence needed that they were in fact operating as a dedicated champagne house before everyone else. 

When I heard this I was a little confused as Gosset had been founded in 1584. As it turns out, the difference is that whilst Gosset was founded much earlier, Ruinart is the first house to actually make a dedicated business out of 'wine with bubbles'. Gosset's earliest production was using grapes from Aӱ to make still, red or pink wines. 

It's hard not to have a sense of admiration for the entrepreneurial spirit of the house. At best, it was a high-risk gamble for its founder, Nicolas Ruinart. At worst, the idea might have come crashing down, discouraging others from following in his footsteps.

As we all now know, the catastrophe that could of been, wasn't. The gamble paid off and the world soon got its 'wine with bubbles'. But it was all thanks to a bit of inspiration from his uncle and Dom Perignon contemporary, Dom Thierry Ruinart, and an unlikely display of capitalistic spirit by King Louis XV.

 

Dom Ruinart was a Benedictine monk who inspired Nicolas after learning about a new 'wine with bubbles' during his time as a theologian in Paris. There he watched with some amusement - and also a keen business eye - the popularity of this new drink with Parisian aristocracy. When he returned home to Champagne from time-to-time, Dom Ruinart would recount these stories back to his brother and nephew, Nicolas, who some twenty years later founded the house under his namesake.

But none of this would have been possible without one important political decision - a royal edict proclaimed by King Louis XV, allowing the transportation of bottles of wine. Up until this point, the commerce of wine was highly restricted as it could only be transported in barrels, rendering it impossible for 'wine with bubbles' to be consumed outside of its immediate production area. This royal edict gave Nicholas Ruinart all the commercial power he needed to turn 'wine with bubbles' into a viable business idea. And so on 1 September 1729, the house of Ruinart was established and with it, the birth of champagne trade as we know it. Shortly after in January 1730, the very first delivery of 'wine with bubbles' was sent. Growth was exponential in the early years with 170 bottles sold in 1730, 3,000 bottles in 1731, and 36,000 in 1761.

The landscape of 'wine with bubbles' was forever changed as more and more entrepreneurs entered the market (often defecting from the previously lucrative textiles trade in favour of the bublly stuff) and began exporting to the world.

We've been rejoicing ever since.

Stepping back in time - Ruinart's Gallo-Roman crayères

Aside from their impressive past as it applies to the history of Champagne, a trip to Ruinart is worth doing if for no other reason than to see their fascinating network of chalk 'crayères' deep below the surface. Located 38 metres below the city of Reims, its 'other world' appeal is much like the champagne it nurtures and protects.

Ruinart's Gallo-Roman crayères are essentially chalk caves that were acquired in 1768 and are among the oldest in existence. They are a product of  chalk mining by the Romans in the 3rd and 4th century A.D who used it mostly for construction purposes around Reims. Crayères are marked by distinctive cone-like ceilings that lead up to small man-holes in the ground's surface above.

Crayères create perfect conditions for storing and maturing champagne. The chalk keeps the temperature steady and cool at around 11 degrees celsius and absorbs humidity perfectly. The dark, cool pits support the slow maturation process imperative for preserving freshness and supporting autolytic development in each champagne bottle.

As we moved across three levels from one cave to another, we learned how the crayères not only serve as a fascinating part of the champagne-making story itself, but how - between their geometrically carved walls - they have been the backdrop to the region's best and worst times. From the feeling of terror by those hiding from the ravages of war through to the frivolity and gaiety of aristocracy as they danced and laughed their nights away at lavish dinners and receptions...if only the walls could talk.

Tasting Dom Ruinart Blanc des Blancs 2002 and Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998

We wound up our visit with a tasting of Ruinart's prestige cuvées in a comfortable reception area that has clearly been designed to warm up the cold bodies of its visitors emerging from the bellows of the chalky earth below.

Ensconced in their plush, leather lounge, we were handed a glass of Dom Ruinart Blanc des Blancs 2002 and Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998.

There is something truly rapturous about having fine champagne in Champagne. As I sit here writing this a few months after our visit, I'm re-living the very moment with such crystal-like memory. It's because, for me, drinking champagne in Champagne is the purest form of champagne appreciation I can have. The cuvées are perfectly handled at every point in their production and storage, up to the very moment it is popped and poured into a glass. The flavours are brighter and more alive and they dance across your palate with such joy and expression. It's an unearthly delight.

Both champagnes were, as per Ruinart style, divinely expressive and elegant with great finesse and minerality - a hallmark of quality chardonnay that's been treated carefully to maximise its potential. Ruinart is a master of chardonnay. Whilst the grape variety is the golden thread that runs through all of their cuvées, it doesn't necessarily dominate them. Instead it works in unison with pinot noir, allowing the qualities of both grape varieties to shine at their magnificent best.

Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998 comprises 85 percent chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and Le Mesnil-sur-Oger located in the Côtes des Blancs and 15 percent pinot noir from Sillery, Puisieulx and Verzenay located in the northern part of the Montagne de Reims. Pinot noir from the northern part of Montagne de Reims is lighter and more elegant than its full-bodied, powerful counterparts in the south. This allows the pinot to express itself in a more delicate way to complement the more elegant and delicate expression of chardonnay.

With highly pronounced aromatic notes on the nose, there were white flowers as well as red fruits such as cherries, strawberries and raspberries. On the palate, it was dry and full-bodied with developing characteristics. The execution, at first, was led by chardonnay with powder-like softness and creaminess, opening wide on the palate. It then made way for firmness from the pinot noir, giving structure to the chardonnay. It manifested with mouth-watering flavours of fresh mixed berries, beef stock and candied orange peel with cloves. Subtle developing notes of toasted nuts and caramel sat below the surface. The length was long with flavours lingering for minutes after. I felt totally engaged by this champagne - so much so that it made my toes curl. It's drinking wonderfully now but I can also see it changing in interesting ways if cellared correctly for a few more years.

Dom Ruinart Blanc des Blancs 2002 is comprised of 100 percent chardonnay from the Grand Cru villages of Avize and Chouilly located in the Côtes des Blancs and Sillery and Puisieulx located in the Montagne de Reims. On the nose, there was white peach, white flowers, pears and apples, lemon and toasty, nutty characters. There was also a touch of something mineral - like slate. Dry and of medium-plus body, the palate was led with a solid line of lemon citrus flavours and acidity yet there was softness to it. There were also stonefruit characters -including yellow peaches - delivered with lashings of cream through a finely textured mousse. So elegant. Tertiary aldehydic flavours also emerged such as hazelnut oil and melted butter, adding complexity, texture and roundness to the flavours. The length was long and concentrated leaving me wanting more.

Forget shoes, I prefer to shop for champagne

If you're an Aussie like me, there is much value in stocking up at Ruinart before you leave. For 345 Euros, or around $430 AUD, you can purchase a box set comprising:

Ruinart Blanc des Blancs NV
Ruinart 'R' de Ruinart NV
Ruinart Rosé NV
Ruinart Brut Vintage 2004
Dom Ruinart Vintage 1998
Dom Ruinart Rosé 1998

Back home, we're paying more than $300 alone for the Dom Ruinart Vintage 1998.

Unfortunately for me, I was already laden with other purchases - no, not shoes and clothes - but champagne. So I had to give this one a miss.

Visiting Ruinart's cellars

Ruinart is one of the houses I always recommend people make a visit to when they're travelling to the region. Irrespective of whether you are a champagne novice or boffan, the house offers everyone who comes an unparalleled insight into the embryonic beginnings of one of the world's greatest pleasures - champagne.

And unlike some other houses, you won't feel like another tourist. Ruinart charges a tour fee. A tour with prestige tasting for two people will set you back around 140 Euros. But I don't mind that - it keeps the less serious at bay. Visits and receptions can be booked on Ruinart's website, or by clicking here.

Next week....Journey to Champagne - Part 3.