Journey to Champagne 2012 - Part 4

Following our fabulous tasting at Philipponnat (see Journey to Champagne 2012 - Part 3), we took a short trip down the road to the family owned Champagne House of Billecart-Salmon, also located in the Premier Cru territory of Mareuil-sur-Ay in the Vallée de la Marne, just south of Reims.

A few years ago I really got into all things Billecart. Like most Billecart fans, it was love at first taste when I savoured their prized non-vintage rosé (see my review here). It offers a concentrated palate of rich, creamy and berry driven flavours with lingering hints of minerality and a long dry finish.  It's simply delicious.  What fascinated me about Billecart then (and still does now) is how clean, pristine, bright and angular the flavours are in their cuvées. 

Ever since those early days of falling for their non-vintage rosé, I have wanted to understand Billecart's philosophy and method and why it separates them from many others.

A little about Billecart-Salmon's style
Some people think that champagne should not be 'clean' as the ones produced by Billecart-Salmon. By 'clean' I refer to the meticulous production processes involving double debourbage (where the must is allowed to settle to the bottom of the wine before racking) and cool fermentation (which is modelled on similar techniques used in beer making). This process keeps the champagne very primary (fruit driven) and reductive (free of interference from oxygen). Further aiding the 'clean' characteristics of their champagnes is the fact they look for a strong acid structure - rather than sugar - to preserve freshness. In contrast, some champagne sippers prefer champagne which is less primary, fatter and rounder and has more (what I like to call) 'funk'; in other words, some less refined characteristics which can produce some very interesting aromas, flavours and textures.

Irrespective of your preference, it's hard to deny the extreme care the House takes to ensure consistency and high quality production standards year after year.

Journey to Champagne 2012 - Part 2

They were only 2.5 kilometres apart, but getting from Louis Roederer to Ruinart in Reims seemed like an impossible task the longer we waited for our cab amidst the drizzle and icy winds.

The generosity of time (and free-flowing champagne) bestowed upon us at Louis Roederer far exceeded our expectations. It was such a joy and indeed a treat - but we were now running terribly late for our next appointment at Ruinart, the oldest champagne house.

We nonetheless arrived, albeit with flat, wet hair and slightly stressed - much to the amusement of a few Americans already there. Oh well, at least they won't forget us in a hurry.